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  • Writer's pictureTessa Wishart

Theory Update Week 11

Methods Annotations

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Methods:

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  • Zero Waste Patternmaking

  • Upcycling

  • Fan Corset Lacing

  • Photographic Printing Processes - Cyanotype and Van Dyke

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​How is the Method generally used? This might be historical or technical It might include materials or tools Who else uses this Method? Can you find a quote about the Method? Explain its importance concerning the design outcome. How are you using the Method? Include diagrams if helpful or close up photographs or drawings from your workbooks Have you adapted the technique? Why are you using it – to achieve what effect or look?


Fan Lacing and Metalwork Hardware Details

Confinement - Comfort - Beauty

Method:

Machine stitched eyelets allow intricate lacing to be threaded over on itself though holed metal buckles, so that the garment may be collectively cinched by tightening the buckle along a connected strap. Dating back to historical fan lacing

​Fan Lacing within the collection bridges a line of functionality, confinement. historical reference and beauty.


Whilst the symbolism of confinement in lacing and historical corsetry referencing is clear, the fan lacing detail was originally created as an individually minded solution, so that the wearer may dress one's self with out the aid of another, such as a ladies maid.


Lacing, and fan lacing details, allows for fluctuations in body shape, size flexibility and functionality

​Even contemporarily, fan lacing and lacing details allows the garments within my collection, the corset in particular, to be more functional, allowing for fluctuations in body shape, and size flexibility .

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Juxtaposition of historical techniques with the visual beauty effect



historical functional technique/visual effect (confinement



Confinement - lacing effect and corsetry symbolism

Comfort - Fan lacing was historically developed to allow women to dress in garments like corsets and girdles without the aid of a ladies maid - they are more user friendly. Lacing itself allows more size flexibility in clothing and allows it to be more functional to greater range of wearer sizes.

Beauty - for the purposes of my own work, the fan lacing effect ranges in levels of functionality to adornment levels but is primarily a visual enhancement detail, particularly on the dress sleeves and partially on the skirt. The metalwork details of handcrafted etched buckles with the feminine form







Corset lacing and cinching forms a relationship with the visual imagery and conceptual inspirations of the feminine form - the sensuality of the relationships with the garment and the body is present.



Fan lacing in undergarments and primary garments

Historically - bra, corsets, girdles



Reference:

Garment flexibility: As the straps not only cinch the garment, but may be tied either in front of or behind the bra.



Underpinnings Museum:

Fan Laced Girdle:



Reference:

- My own theory II essay - Local Manufacturing and Craftsmanship Prospects Within the New Zealand Fashion Industry





Wearability and multifunctionality



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